Are Primitivo and Zinfandel the same varietal? Depends on who you ask. Primitivo and Zinfandel are essentially the same grape genetically, but there are some important differences due to where and how they’re grown and vinified.
Primitivo originates from Puglia in southern Italy, while Zinfandel was popularized in California, especially in Napa and Sonoma. Primitivo is grown in hot, dry Mediterranean climates and tends to produce slightly drier, earthier, and more rustic wines. Zinfandel, in contrast, is grown in warm but more varied climates with a strong emphasis on ripeness and bold fruit. This often results in wines with higher alcohol and a more fruit-forward style. However, both are genetic clones of a grape called Crljenak Kaštelanski (Tserl-yee-ehnak Kashh-tell-ann-skee), a littleknown varietal from Croatia. Indigenous to the Dalmatian coast near Split, it’s also known locally as Tribidrag or sometimes- less accurately- “Croatian Zinfandel.” In the late 1990s, ampelographers (grape geneticists) began to compare DNA profiles and confirmed Crljenak Kaštelanski is essentially the same variety as Primitivo and Zinfandel, reconnecting the American and Italian vines back to their Croatian roots.
Primitivo will normally have notes of dark berries, black pepper, leather, and licorice. The palate will be dry, structured, and with hints of dust or earth. Alcohol: Usually 13-14%. Zinfandel by contrast tends towards notes of ripe, jammy fruit, and sweet spices. Depending on the oak used, a chocolate note can be expressed. Compared to Primitivo it will be rich, juicy, and sometimes sweet leaning with alcohol ranging from 14 to 16% and higher depending on the year. Primitivo pairs well with Italian dishes- particularly southern Italian fare. Think grilled meats, pasta with tomato sauce, and aged cheeses. Zinfandel, with its more New World expression, is better paired with BBQ, burgers, and roasted game.
Of the two, Zinfandel is grown more extensively, particularly because of California’s massive wine industry, where it is normally in the top 5 of most planted varietals each year. Zinfandel has more global recognition as a result and is also planted widely in Australia, South Africa, and some parts of Eastern Europe. Primitivo vineyards, by contrast, are mostly confined to southern Italy, particularly the region of Puglia. Italy has around 12,000–14,000 acres of Primitivo under vine. It’s mostly used for regional wines like Primitivo di Manduria and Gioia del Colle Primitivo. While more localized, it’s growing in popularity in other regions as people rediscover old-world styles and Mediterranean reds.
But what about our mother grape?
In its native terroir, Crljenak Kaštelanski often produces wines that are mediumbodied with firm acidity (more so than its Zinfandel offspring). Aromas of wild red berries, Mediterranean herbs (thyme, rosemary), and a subtle flinty/mineral note. Tannins are generally finer and more restrained, giving a somewhat elegant finish. Plantings in Croatia remain quite small- so single varietal bottlings are rare, and it’s normally used as a blending grape. A handful of experimental plots exist in California and elsewhere, but nearly all commercial “Zinfandel” is planted under that name.
If you have the chance to try Primitivo and Zinfandel side by side, you’ll experience how geography and viticulture styles can make even the most related of grapes into very different wine experiences. Throw a party and try them off against each other with different pairings. And if you can find some Crljenak Kaštelanski, too, even better!